:root{--red:#c8121c;--red-d:#9c0d14;--ink:#17130f;--ink2:#2b241d;--paper:#fbf7f1;--sand:#f3eadc;--sand2:#ebdfcb;--line:#e3d6c3;--muted:#6b6259;--gold:#f2b705;--white:#fff;--serif:'Fraunces',Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;--sans:'Figtree',system-ui,-apple-system,'Segoe UI',sans-serif;--r:14px;--shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(23,19,15,.06),0 8px 30px rgba(23,19,15,.07)}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%;scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 17px/1.65 var(--sans);text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}a{color:var(--red-d);text-underline-offset:3px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}a:hover{color:var(--red)}
h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:-.01em;margin:0 0 .5em;color:var(--ink);font-variation-settings:"opsz" 96}
h1{font-size:clamp(2.1rem,4.6vw,3.6rem)}h2{font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.6vw,2.05rem)}h3{font-size:1.25rem}
p{margin:0 0 1.1em}.wrap{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 22px}.narrow{max-width:760px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px}.skip:focus{left:12px;top:12px;background:#fff;padding:8px 12px;z-index:99}
.eyebrow{font:700 .74rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--red)}
.muted{color:var(--muted)}
/* masthead */
.strip{background:var(--ink);color:#e9e0d2;font-size:.8rem}.strip .wrap{display:flex;gap:18px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;min-height:36px}
.strip a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none;margin-left:16px;font-weight:600}.strip a:hover{color:var(--gold)}.strip .stars{color:var(--gold);letter-spacing:2px;margin-right:8px}
.hdr{background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:sticky;top:0;z-index:40;backdrop-filter:saturate(1.2)}
.hdr-in{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:22px;min-height:78px}.logo img{width:183px;height:auto}
.nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:4px;margin-left:auto}.nav>a,.nav .dd>a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;font-weight:600;font-size:.95rem;padding:9px 12px;border-radius:999px}
.nav>a:hover,.nav .dd>a:hover,.nav [aria-current]{background:var(--sand)}
.dd{position:relative}.dd-menu{display:none;position:absolute;top:100%;left:-10px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--r);box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:14px;width:560px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:2px 16px}
.dd:hover .dd-menu,.dd:focus-within .dd-menu{display:grid}.dd-menu a{display:block;padding:7px 10px;border-radius:8px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-size:.92rem}.dd-menu a:hover{background:var(--sand)}
.dd-menu b{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600}.dd-menu small{color:var(--muted)}
.btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;background:var(--red);color:#fff!important;border:0;border-radius:999px;padding:11px 20px;font:700 .95rem/1 var(--sans);text-decoration:none;cursor:pointer;transition:background .15s,transform .15s}
.btn:hover{background:var(--red-d);transform:translateY(-1px)}.btn-ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--ink)!important;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1.5px var(--ink)}.btn-ghost:hover{background:var(--ink);color:#fff!important}
.btn-dark{background:var(--ink)}.btn-dark:hover{background:#000}.btn-sm{padding:8px 14px;font-size:.86rem}
.menu-btn{display:none;margin-left:auto;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;border:0;border-radius:999px;padding:9px 16px;font-weight:700}
/* home */
.hero{padding:44px 0 26px}.hero-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.45fr 1fr;gap:34px;align-items:stretch}
.feature{position:relative;border-radius:22px;overflow:hidden;min-height:470px;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;text-decoration:none}
.feature img,.feature .plate{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.feature:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(180deg,rgba(0,0,0,0) 35%,rgba(10,7,5,.82))}
.feature .in{position:relative;z-index:2;padding:30px}.feature h1,.feature h2{color:#fff;font-size:clamp(1.9rem,3.6vw,3rem);margin:.3em 0}.feature p{color:#f1e8db;max-width:560px;margin:0}
.feature .eyebrow{color:var(--gold)}
.list-card{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:22px;padding:24px 24px 14px}.list-card h2{font-size:1.45rem;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px}
.list-card ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;counter-reset:n}.list-card li{counter-increment:n;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.list-card li a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:38px 1fr;gap:10px;padding:12px 0;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink)}.list-card li a:before{content:counter(n,decimal-leading-zero);font:600 1.2rem/1.2 var(--serif);color:var(--red)}
.list-card li b{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;font-size:1.06rem;display:block;line-height:1.25}.list-card li small{color:var(--muted)}
.stars-mark{color:var(--gold);letter-spacing:1px}
.sec{padding:46px 0}.sec-hd{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;margin-bottom:22px}.sec-hd h2{margin:0}.sec-hd a{font-weight:700;white-space:nowrap}
.cravings{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px}.cravings a{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:10px 18px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}.cravings a:hover{border-color:var(--red);color:var(--red)}
.cards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:24px}.cards.four{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}
.card{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px;overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);display:flex;flex-direction:column;transition:transform .18s,box-shadow .18s}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:var(--shadow)}.card .img{aspect-ratio:16/10;background:var(--sand);position:relative;overflow:hidden}.card .img img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.card .bd{padding:16px 18px 18px}.card h3{font-size:1.18rem;margin:.35em 0 .3em}.card p{color:var(--muted);font-size:.93rem;margin:0}
.plate{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;background:radial-gradient(circle at 30% 20%,#fff6e8 0,#f3e4cc 45%,#e8d3b3 100%)}
.plate span{font:600 clamp(1.4rem,3vw,2.6rem)/1 var(--serif);color:var(--red-d);text-align:center;padding:0 18px;font-style:italic;opacity:.92}
.plate.dark{background:radial-gradient(circle at 30% 20%,#3a2d24 0,#1f1813 60%,#140f0b 100%)}.plate.dark span{color:#f3d9a6}
/* pick finder */
.finder{background:var(--ink);color:#f3ebdf;border-radius:22px;padding:30px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.1fr;gap:28px;align-items:center}
.finder h2{color:#fff}.finder p{color:#d9cdbb}.finder label{display:block;font-weight:700;font-size:.85rem;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);margin-bottom:8px}
.finder select,.loc-select{width:100%;padding:13px 14px;border-radius:12px;border:1px solid #4a3d31;background:#241d17;color:#fff;font:600 1rem var(--sans)}
.finder .addr{margin:12px 0 16px;font-size:.98rem}.finder .map{border-radius:16px;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:4/3;background:#241d17}
.finder iframe,.map iframe{width:100%;height:100%;border:0;display:block}
/* article */
.art-hero{padding:34px 0 10px}.crumbs{font-size:.84rem;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:16px}.crumbs a{color:var(--muted)}.crumbs i{font-style:normal;margin:0 6px;opacity:.6}
.dek{font-size:1.22rem;color:var(--ink2);max-width:780px;line-height:1.5}
.byline{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 16px;align-items:center;font-size:.88rem;color:var(--muted);margin:18px 0 0;padding-top:16px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.byline b{color:var(--ink)}.cover{border-radius:20px;overflow:hidden;margin:24px 0 8px;aspect-ratio:16/8.4;background:var(--sand)}.cover img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.cover-cap{font-size:.78rem;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 6px}
.art-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;gap:44px;padding:20px 0 40px}
.side{position:sticky;top:98px;align-self:start;display:grid;gap:18px}
.box{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px;padding:20px}.box h3{font-size:1.06rem;margin-bottom:.6em}
.toc ol{margin:0;padding-left:18px;font-size:.92rem}.toc li{margin:5px 0}.toc a{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none}.toc a:hover{color:var(--red)}
.pick{position:relative;background:#fff;border:2px solid var(--red);border-radius:20px;padding:24px 24px 20px;margin:8px 0 30px}
.pick .tag{position:absolute;top:-13px;left:20px;background:var(--red);color:#fff;font:800 .72rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:7px 12px;border-radius:999px}
.pick h2{font-size:1.55rem;margin:.2em 0 .45em}.pick p{margin-bottom:.9em}.pick .acts{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;align-items:center}
.locs{margin-top:14px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto;gap:10px;align-items:center}
.locs select{width:100%;padding:11px 12px;border-radius:12px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);font:600 .95rem var(--sans);color:var(--ink)}
.picks{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 0 30px;counter-reset:p}
.picks>li{counter-increment:p;display:grid;grid-template-columns:62px 1fr;gap:18px;padding:24px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.picks>li:before{content:counter(p);font:600 2.6rem/1 var(--serif);color:var(--red);text-align:center}
.picks h3{font-size:1.38rem;margin:0 0 .2em}.picks .meta{font-size:.86rem;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:.6em}.picks .best{display:inline-block;background:var(--sand);color:var(--ink);font-weight:700;font-size:.78rem;padding:4px 10px;border-radius:999px;margin-right:8px}
.picks .links{display:flex;gap:16px;font-size:.9rem;font-weight:700}.picks li.me{background:linear-gradient(90deg,#fff 0,#fff8f0 100%);border-radius:16px;border-top-color:transparent;padding-left:10px;padding-right:12px;box-shadow:inset 3px 0 0 var(--red)}
.tbl{overflow-x:auto;margin:10px 0 28px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;background:#fff}
.tbl table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:.93rem}.tbl th,.tbl td{text-align:left;padding:11px 14px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}
.tbl thead th{background:var(--sand);font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}.tbl tbody tr:last-child>*{border-bottom:0}.tbl tr.me th,.tbl tr.me td{background:#fff6ee}
.prose h2{margin-top:1.6em}.prose h3{margin-top:1.3em}.prose ul,.prose ol{padding-left:22px}.prose li{margin:6px 0}
.prose blockquote{margin:1.4em 0;padding:4px 0 4px 20px;border-left:3px solid var(--red);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.2rem;font-style:italic}
.faqs{margin:34px 0}.faqs details{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;margin:10px 0;padding:0 18px}
.faqs summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:700;padding:15px 0;list-style:none}.faqs summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.faqs summary:after{content:"+";float:right;color:var(--red);font-size:1.3rem;line-height:1}
.faqs details[open] summary:after{content:"\2212"}.faqs details>div{padding:0 0 14px;color:var(--ink2)}
.related{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:26px;margin-top:20px}
/* place page */
.place-hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:32px;align-items:start;padding:30px 0 10px}
.facts{display:grid;gap:10px;margin:18px 0}.facts div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:120px 1fr;gap:10px;font-size:.95rem;padding-bottom:10px;border-bottom:1px dashed var(--line)}
.facts dt{font-weight:700;color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;padding-top:3px}.facts dd{margin:0}
.map{border-radius:20px;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:4/3.2;background:var(--sand);border:1px solid var(--line)}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:8px 0 0}.chips span{background:var(--sand);border-radius:999px;padding:5px 12px;font-size:.84rem;font-weight:600}
.new{display:inline-block;background:var(--gold);color:var(--ink);font:800 .7rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:6px 10px;border-radius:999px;vertical-align:middle;margin-left:8px}
/* forms */
.form{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;padding:24px}.form h2{font-size:1.4rem}
.form label{display:block;font-weight:600;font-size:.9rem;margin:0 0 12px}.form input,.form select,.form textarea{width:100%;margin-top:6px;padding:11px 12px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;font:400 1rem var(--sans);background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}
.form input:focus,.form textarea:focus,.form select:focus{outline:2px solid var(--red);outline-offset:1px;border-color:transparent}
.g2{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 14px}.hp{position:absolute;left:-9999px}.human input{max-width:110px}
.form-msg{margin:10px 0 0;font-weight:600}.form-msg.ok{color:#1d7a3b}.form-msg.err{color:var(--red)}
/* footer */
.ftr{background:var(--ink);color:#d8ccba;margin-top:50px;padding:52px 0 26px;font-size:.93rem}
.ftr-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:34px}.ftr h2{color:#fff;font:700 .78rem/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:14px}
.ftr ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.ftr li{margin:7px 0}.ftr a{color:#f3ebdf;text-decoration:none}.ftr a:hover{color:var(--gold)}
.ftr-logo{width:170px;margin-bottom:14px}.ftr-base{border-top:1px solid #3a3129;margin-top:34px;padding-top:18px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:.82rem;color:#a99a86}
.pager{display:flex;gap:12px;justify-content:center;margin:28px 0}.pager a{padding:9px 16px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;text-decoration:none;font-weight:700;background:#fff}
.page-hero{padding:40px 0 18px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin-bottom:28px}
.areas-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:16px}.area{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;padding:18px 20px;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);display:block}
.area b{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:600}.area small{display:block;color:var(--muted)}.area:hover{border-color:var(--red)}
@media (max-width:980px){.hero-grid,.finder,.place-hero,.art-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.side{position:static}.cards,.cards.four{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.ftr-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.feature{min-height:400px}}
@media (max-width:760px){body{font-size:16.5px}.menu-btn{display:block}.nav{display:none;position:absolute;left:0;right:0;top:100%;background:var(--paper);flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;padding:12px 22px 20px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.nav.open{display:flex}.dd-menu{position:static;display:grid;width:auto;grid-template-columns:1fr;box-shadow:none;border:0;padding:0 0 0 10px}.strip .links{display:none}.cards,.cards.four,.areas-grid,.g2{grid-template-columns:1fr}
.picks>li{grid-template-columns:42px 1fr;gap:12px}.picks>li:before{font-size:2rem}.ftr-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.facts div{grid-template-columns:1fr}.logo img{width:150px}}
.card .img>.plate,.cover>.plate{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%}.cover{position:relative}
.finder .eyebrow{color:var(--gold)}
.art-grid{padding:20px 22px 40px}.cover.empty{aspect-ratio:16/3.6}
.art-grid>*{min-width:0}.locs select{min-width:0}.side .locs{grid-template-columns:1fr}.side .locs .btn{justify-self:start}
@media (max-width:980px){.art-grid{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}}